SHERPA

THE MEMOIR OF ANG THARKAY

BY

ANG THARKAY with BASIL NORTON (translated by Corinne McKay)

2016 FIRST EDITION

First English publication of the scarce 1954 original French edition

THIS AND TENZING'S BOOK ARE THE ONLY FIRST PERSON SHERPA ACCOUNTS OF THE GOLDEN AGE OF HIMALAYAN MOUNTAINEERING


This is the first printing of the first edition of SHERPA -- THE MEMOIR OF ANG THARKAY by Sherpa Ang Tharkay. This book was published in 2016 by The Mountaineers Books in Seattle. The book measures 228mm tall x 152mm and 204 pages + [4], 1 b/w photo, 3 maps, bibliography, index. This is the first English language edition of a book originally published in 1954 in French. This has a new foreword by Tharkay's nephew and a new afterword by Tharkay's son, plus a new bibliography, updated footnotes, and a table of Tharkay's major expeditions. This is unlike any other Himalayan mountaineering book for the period between 1930 and 1953 because it gives the perspective of the Sherpa on major climbing expeditions to the great peaks, considerably less diluted & more candid than Tenzing's Tiger Of The Snows which was heavily edited and crafted by James Ramsey Ullman. It was a very tough start for Tharkay, but he persevered and became a favorite Sirdar for important expeditions from several countries. Ang Tharkay was one of the greatest of the early climbing Sherpas. He began his career at the age of 20 with the German 1931 expedition to Kangchenjunga. He joined Ruttledge’s Everest expeditions of 1933 & 1936, Shipton’s Everest expeditions of 1935 & 1951, Tilman’s Everest expedition 1938, the Shipton expedition to Nanda Devi 1934, Cooke’s expedition in 1935 to Kabru, the Shipton-Osmaston survey of Nanda Devi 1936, Shipton-Tilman (Blank On The Map) Karakoram expedition 1937, Shipton Karakoram expedition 1939, French ascent of Annapurna 1950, B. Pierre’s Nun-Kun expedition 1953. These are all described in detail in this book. The most detailed description is that of the Annapurna expedition (53 pages). Ang Tharkay continued after the publication of this book to play roles in the great expeditions of the 1950s to the 8000m peaks. Still going strong at the age of 55, he carried to 8450m on the 1962 Indian attempt of Everest.

CONDITION: Original paperback (no hardcover ever issued) about the size of a standard hardcover book. NEW condition acquired directly from the publisher. Price: $19.


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