1975 First Edition
By Warren "BATSO" Harding (1924-2002) with illustrations by Beryl "BEASTO" Knauth
THE CLASSIC SATIRE OF THE YOSEMITE SCENE
CONDITION: The book is bound in original blue boards (imitation cloth) with yellow lettering spine. The book is in nice condition with less than the usual amount of browning to pages. There are no previous owner marks or writing on any pages. No pages or page corners have been creased. The binding is tight and square. The dust jacket is in better than average condition for this book, no chips, no tears, some rubbing at ends of spine and tips corners, some soiling lower rear panel, 100% complete with original price intact on flap corner. Overall nice, collectible condition. Collectible condition copies of this book have become very scarce.Price: $250.
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ALL PHOTOS ARE OF THE ACTUAL ITEM BEING OFFERED
WE NEVER USE STOCK PHOTOS
WE NEVER USE BAIT AND SWITCH TACTICS
This book is a combination of instruction (first 60 pages), satire, and mountaineering autobiography. Harding (1924-2002) is best known for his pioneering first ascent in 1958 of the Nose route on El Capitan in Yosemite Valley. He also made the controversial first ascent of El Capitan's Wall of the Early Morning Light in 1970, a climb that attracted national press attention.
The majority of this book is about Harding's early climbing days in Yosemite with focus on the first ascent of the Nose and the first ascent of the Wall of the Early Morning Light. Anecdotes abound in connection with Harding's contemporary climbers in the Valley: Royal Robbins, T.M. Herbert, Yvon Chouinard, Don Lauria, Chuck Pratt, Galen Rowell, etc.
The book closes with an appendix where Harding rates these and other climbers (61 total) on a scale of 1 to 10, and presents his reasons plus some biographical notes on each climber. Harding describes the rating system as:
"ZONE 1. COLOR OF HAT: WHITE.
It is interesting to note that, in general, those in this group view themselves as enlightened, liberal, hang-loose types. They denounce formal religions, stodgy social mores, and the 'establishment.' They tend to be very intellectual. But, when it comes to climbing, they're about as liberal as Adolph Hitler and his -- uh -- sociological views.
Paradoxically, they come on like some kind of ideological fanatics, treating the (at best) questionable activity known as rock climbing as though it were some profound religious or political entity (might be getting into some metaphysical thin ice here), and go to a great deal of trouble and effort to 'institutionalize' this form of buffoonery. Of course, all institutions require a hierarchy to take charge; zone 1 people certainly are a 'take charge' type. [examples of Zone 1 climbers: Royal Robbins, Tom Frost, Yvon Chouinard] ...
ZONE 7. COLOR OF HAT: DARK GRAY
ZONE 10. COLOR OF HAT; BLACK.
Harding didn't rate a few of the people in the appendix; nevertheless, he offers some opinion and description. For example, the entry for Fred Beckey is:
"FRED BECKEY ZONE ?
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