BROAD PEAK

MEINE BERGFAHRTEN MIT HERMANN BUHL

BY MARCUS SCHMUCK

1958 FIRST EDITION

THE FIRST ASCENT OF BROAD PEAK

VERY SCARCE BOOK

SIGNED BY MARCUS SCHMUCK, FRITZ WINTERSTELLAR & QUADER SAEED

WITH CARD SIGNED BY KURT DIEMBERGER


This is the first printing of the first edition of BROAD PEAK: MEINE BERGFAHRTEN MIT HERMANN BUHL by Marcus Schmuck. This book was published in Salzburg by Das Bergland-Buch Verlag in 1958. TEXT IN GERMAN. This book has not yet been published in english. This example has been signed on the short-title page by Marcus Schmuck, Fritz Winterstellar, and Quader Saeed. Saeed was the liaison officer for the expedition. He climbed as high as Camp I on the mountain. ALSO, loosely inserted is a card signed by Kurt Diemberger. The book measures 216mm tall x 143mm and has 360 pages + [5], 9 color photos (3 are folding plates), 51 b/w photos including some with route diagrams (4 are on folding plates), facsimilie of Buhlís last note to Schmuck, 1 sketch, two single-page maps, 2 maps on front EP (one is detailed, other is locator map). Text in german, no english edition. One of the least common of the first-hand account books detailing the first ascent of an 8000m peak, in this case, Broad Peak. The author, Fritz Wintersteller, Kurt Diemberger, and Hermann Buhl made the first ascent of Broad Peak in 1957. Shortly after the ascent, Buhl was killed in a cornice collapse & fall while descending from an attempt on nearby Chogolisa. The first 124 pages are about Schmuckís Alpine climbs, climbing expedition to the Atlas Mountains of Africa, climbing expedition to Iran, & climbing expedition to Spitzbergen. The next 42 pages are Schmuckís climbs with Buhl in the Alps. The remaining pages are on the Broad Peak expedition. Interesting photos.

CONDITION: Original beige rough-weave cloth, brown lettering front cover, blue title block spine with brown lettering. SIGNED by Schmuck, Winterstellar, and Saeed on the short-title page. Included is a card signed by Kurt Diemberger. We had the opportunity on several occasions to have Diemberger directly sign this book, but passed, since Diemberger invariably adds, "Read Summits And Secrets for the true story." We deemed that such a statement would be inappropriate and disrespectful if written in Schmuck's fine book. This example of the book is in excellent condition. The covers of the book are clean, not rubbed, and not faded. Other than the pertinent signatures the book has no previous owner marks or writing on any pages, no foxing, tight binding. The book is complete with all plates and pages. The dust jacket is in much better than average condition for this book (usually it is missing or worn) with only a 1cm tear at the top of the spine with some associated crinkle marks, no other tears, no chips, quite clean, no fading, minor rubbing at the tips of the flap corners. Price: $2300.


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fold-out photo
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Buhl memorial cairn


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