BY RICHARD SALE
2004 FIRST EDITION
FIRST FULL ACCOUNT IN ENGLISH OF THE 1957 FIRST ASCENT
This is the first printing of the first edition of BROAD PEAK by Richard Sale. This book was published in Ross-On-Wye by Carreg Limited in 2004. The book measures 232mm tall x 150mm, and has 208 pages, 49 color & 18 b/w photos, list of Broad Peak summiters. This is a superb account of the 1957 Broad Peak expedition that accomplished the first ascent. Prior to this book, the firsthand accounts in english have been only those by Kurt Diemberger who launched his career with the story of this expedition. Over the years, Diemberger has carefully managed his version of the trip regardless of the inaccuracies and intentional omissions. Finally, this book gives voice to the accounts by the other members (the leader Marcus Schmuck, Fritz Winterstellar, and the liaison officer Qader Saeed), and they donít always paint the romantic vision recounted by Diemberger. Along with the tremendous success, there was considerable tension and competition during this expedition. Richard Sale used diaries and in-person interviews with the members of the expedition, and includes some revealing personal experiences with Diembergerís image control. For those who donít already know, Winterstellar turned out to be the climbing star of the expedition with Schmuck close behind (or ahead if you count his disproportionately large efforts in the planning and organizing of the expedition).
CONDITION: Original navy hardcover, silver lettering spine. Both dust jacket and book are in flawless condition with no previous owner marks or writing on any pages, no foxing, tight binding. Price: $45.
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